Wednesday 27 July 2011

Leaving Malawi....

Dear friends,
 
I am sadly/not sadly, returning to the UK in September. I'm done with Malawi just yet though, so there are a few more tourist visa stamps to be had in my passport from the wonderful chaps at immigration... 
 
There is still so much need here, and it’s easy to forget that Malawi is one of the ten poorest countries in the world, with over one million orphans. AIDS, Malaria and other diseases continue to cripple many communities, despite sweeping interventions from some of the larger aid agencies. Many of the 13 million people living here still exist on less than $1 a day. NGOs come and go, leaving little motivation for people to help themselves because everything is handed out and done without consulting and involving local communities. To make matters worse, the political situation here worsens daily and the relations between the Brit and Malawi governments is growing increasingly sour. Tax is going up on almost everything, quotas have been extortionately increased for fines the police need to collect from motorists, visa restrictions grow tighter, the fuel crisis continues to cripple the country and the blackouts/power shortages are bordering on ridiculous. Who would have thought a few weeks ago, that Malawi would erupt into political turmoil for 2 days? Peaceful protests led to violent riots, looting and vicious targeted attacks.
 
BUT! We’ve had a lot of successes and positive progress in our community development work so far. We are improving the quality of life for a lot of people here in Malawi, living around the farm estates. That much is true. From the feeding programmes, to the disability clinic we’re setting up, to the adult literacy circles and the work we do with smallholder farmers building capacity and improving their access to markets (and many more activities); we have undoubtedly improved rural livelihoods and our 60 year leases on the farms prove that we’re in it for the long haul unlike many other aid agencies and NGOs. But the harsh realities of being a business and the need to earn money come first before the priorities of community development. There are some awesome and incredibly inspiring people/organisations who are making such a difference in people’s lives here (*cough* the Mollers *cough*!) so the picture is definitely not one of doom and gloom.
 
I find the future is uncertain, and it’s hard to know where God is taking us sometimes, and why. But I have had such a great time pretending that i’m not a tall blonde white-y, and that I am in fact Malawian... There have been up’s and down’s, but on the whole, I have absolutely loved every minute of my time here and I leave knowing that I have made some life long (and unfortunately, soon to be, long distance) friends. Africa is a beautiful, special, frustrating, random, awe inspiring place, and you have to live that through your own eyes to truly understand what that means and feels like. For now, here are a few final photos of the work i’ve been doing and the amazing people I get to work with every day....
 



These are workers at our Mchinji farm; the young boys carry fumigating packs and the women bring their children to work as they work on de-seeding the maize cobs. We want to set up creche’s on some of the farms so that the children can be looked after in a more healthy/safe environment.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
for me, very special pictures, of the children who attend the Mangochi farm’s feeding programme. Florence and I have become good friends and it’s been wonderful getting to know each of the children. Mangochi is a very poor area in Malawi and as such the children are visibly more malnourished than their peers in other districts. Though not without fault, it’s great to have a feeding programme in place which is reaching out to these young kids, battling to improve their nutritional status.
 
 
 

Gandali Primary School, where we have set up a link school in the UK. The classrooms are being renovated with cement, and our team of volunteers will help to paint the walls with whitewash and blackboard paint. The teachers are inspiring in their commitment to improving the quality of education for their students, and not being a party to the usual handouts. They provide their own bricks and sand using local labour and get the students to contribute towards some of these costs. I’ve been blessed to build up such a good relationship with them, and it was touching on the last few visits when students remembered my name and when miraculously I could understand conversations in broken chichewa!!


Of course, it hasn’t all been long days in the office and hard days on the road... what brilliant adventures i’ve had with such good friends! (hahaha sorry Kat, couldn’t resist, love you!)






 
 
Prayer points: please pray for our team of volunteers coming from the UK TODAY! Please pray for courage, humility and grace for all of us, that we might be able to make a positive impact in the work that we do and the people we work with. Please also pray for God’s provision, that we would have enough fuel to get to where we need and so on.
 
So onwards we go.... thank you for your kind words of support and prayer, and I hope you have found some of my mutterings interesting.... I hope to write to you all again living in another exotic paradise somewhere in the world, but until then...
 
tionana mawa
 
Love and blessings
 
Hannah

Friday 22 July 2011

Rumours are just so good at instilling fear into people....

This information courtesty of Sam Kawale, a business owner in Lilongwe, determined to set the record straight about damage caused. There's a definite balance to be had but the situation in Malawi is not life or death OR generally riotous. The city is once again largely peaceful, and shops are beginning to open again today.

Here is what Sam had to say on Lilongwe Chat - an online messageboard we use here... like I said previously, photos speak for themselves, and some awful things have taken place in this otherwise peaceful and stable country in the last 2 days. But likewise, people enjoy exaggerating facts and claiming things as true that definitely are not.


Sam Kawale  
View profile  
 More options Jul 21, 4:07 pm
After spending the last two hours back and forth in Lilongwe, the situation
has not changed for the worse as THERE IS STILL A LOT OF CALM.
Chilinde, Nchesi, Biwi are all very calm. A lot of people are home and
businesses still closed. Nchesi street (where they sell coffins and
window/door frames) is also very calm and vendors are open for business.
Across the bridge on this side it is still very, very calm. Nothing has been
broken as earlier reported by some people. Only Peoples shop in Kawale is
the only one I saw burnt down to the ground. I have attached pictures of
some of the buildings that were said to have been damaged (I was using a
phone camera so the pix might be poor).
Let me repeat: Chipiku, Game, Shoprite have not been damaged, and so is our
shop, JDS COMPUTER CENTRE and PRINTER SYSTEMs near Chipiku, its ok (so you
can come and buy computers or have them repaired anytime, or come and have
your t-shirts screen printed or embroidered. We will serve you).
As for fuel, NO PETRO STATION OPEN. Don't bother going around.
As for groceries, sorry, you will have to live on left overs tonight J, no
grocery shops open, so are all take away places (mostly because their
workers cant come to work as there is no public transport).
More update will follow if I hear anything contrary, but for now, stay away
from area 25 and Likuni. I hear tension is still high.
There is a higher level of Malawi Army presence in all the streets. This has
helped quite a bit, and I hear they are now going to Area 25 and Likuni to
bring calm there.
Thanks for reading this and let me know if you have any more questions or
concerns
In HIS service Together
Sam Kawale
JDS Investments/E-3 International
P.O. Box 2129
Lilongwe
+265-888-308-798
+265-999-600-345
If your vision does not scare you, then the Lord is not in it.




 deserted Lilongwe bridge.jpg
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 Deserted Mosque area.jpg
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 Chilinde, just before traffic lights.jpg
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 Chipiku stores intact.jpg
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There are still problems in Area 25 and Likuni areas of town but to reiterate - these are not the safest parts of town at the BEST of times, so it's wise to avoid these parts at all costs. As for the rest of town, there is a strong army presence and they are doing what they can to keep the peace. Shops are opening and life is returning to normal.

The violence here throws up much broader discussion on governance and democracy in this country, and for the first time ever in Malawian history, we have made the international news and social media networks are a hive of activity with people who have otherwise not taken an interest in this country, now talking about what is going on. I'm glad things are returning to normal, though with more extreme protests planned again for 17th/20th August, things are far from over.

In other news, the nyasatimes website is now back up and running and the radio stations are once again broadcasting. The government tried it's best to censor the newspapers and radios by taking them offline/ off air, but what a fail! The sheer volume of twitter coverage highlights the pressure we have all put on different organisations leading to much more widespread international media coverage of the protests here.

Hannah

Thursday 21 July 2011

Day 2

Day 2 and we were hoping for a peaceful day back at work.

We arrive to the office this morning, which is in the centre of Lilongwe, to looters running away through the bush opposite. We shortly hear reports from colleagues and friends that violence and trouble continued long into the night in certain districts like Biwi, Kawale and Mchesi. Reports that the Metro and Chipiku were being looted were confirmed true, and moments later we could hear noise from Chipiku (which is behind our office) as well as teargas being fired into the crowd. The gunshots that followed were all we needed to decide to close the office for the day (10am) and head home. Leaving the office was nerve wracking as it was unclear where the mob would move to and our offices are in the middle of town, but once we were on our way things were fine. Lilongwe is very quiet, but some shops like the mighty foodworths continued to stay open and they reported no violence or trouble at all.


takeitdown281413_206926846021517_100001126098904_531446_5107321_n




Here's what the BBC have to say on the matter:


President Bingu wa Mutharika said the protesters were "working for Satan".
"Each time we have a problem, is it a solution to go to the streets and demonstrate? I don't think so. Those of you who have started this, I know you," he said, in a state of the nation address.
Correspondents say lorry-loads of soldiers and riot police are patrolling Lilongwe's city centre, clearing barricades that protesters had set up.
The city centre is deserted with shops closed while there are reports of looting in neighbouring townships, correspondents say. "
However, their report is somewhat watered down. We have seen the lorry loads of soldiers racing up and down streets with our own eyes, and though the city centre is now a ghost town it was a different story earlier this morning. Though reports can often be under or over exaggerated, I find it's quite hard to deny or exaggerate photographic evidence... here are the latest from friends/twitterati. As you can see, most people wanted to protest peacefully and many were happy to be able to exercise their freedom of speech. However some of the photos below are quite graphic, and show how easy it is for these situations to deteriorate rapidly from peaceful protests into violent, malicious acts of hatred.















We are hoping for a peaceful day tomorrow; there has been a much heavier armed military presence on the ground today and with any luck those who had their scores to settle have done so now. History has been made in this country - nothing like this has taken place for well over 45 years, so enough is enough - stop torching cars and looting in the name of 'protesting for democracy'.
It has to be said, this situation is really only bad in the centre of cities in Malawi. On the outskirts of Lilongwe, and in much of the country, the same peaceful, quiet and slow way of life continues to plod on much like it always has and much like it will do for years to come. I hope no one cancels trips here or rethinks a visit. Just like in Kenya, in the elections a few years back, the violence and problems are internal and domestic - and not aimed at tourists or expats. You just have to be sensible at avoiding the dangerous areas. This just occurs to me, as I realise family and friends read this blog.... my passion to show what is going on comes from loving this country and loving the people that are wanting to fight for better democracy and governance....it is not intended as scare mongering. Most of these photos have been taken in already slightly dodgy areas of town, and though not unaffected, we are all safe and not overly worried (and that's saying something, coming from the world's worst worrywort...)
We'll see what mawa brings...
Hannah

Wednesday 20 July 2011

so what's been going on?

It's finally made the international news http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-14217148 and people are noticing what has been going on here in Malawi.

After being boxed in all day we grew restless and decided to see for ourselves what was going on in town. We drove through an alarmingly deserted city centre; shops are shut, very few cars on the roads and even more extraordinarily there aren't many people on the streets. It felt a bit like driving through a ghost town in a Western movie....

We caught up with some friends to hear their experiences, and they had actually cycled through the worst affected areas earlier on and not been affected. The violence has been coming mostly from thugs (from both sides) targetted at one another.

We eventually ran into the march, which may seem intimidating but despite the heavily armed guards and the mob mentality, it was relatively peaceful. It's been quite a day, but putting the blog to bed just now...

Hannah.



latest pictures from Malawi

Demonstrators in Malawi:

#Malawi demonstrations: One more photo from Mzuzu.

Protestors in Lilongwe:

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Someone has torched a DPP vehicle:
caption

peaceful protestors.... dressed in red:

#Malawi demonstrations: One more photo from Rumphi #July20

latest pictures from Malawi

#Malawi: Fire on road to Mchesi in Lilongwe #July20

This is a fire that has been burning near Mchesi, Lilongwe area. Details unclear but the photo says it all.

Demo in Blantyre #Malawi

Photos of protestors in Blantyre.

Thoughts on Malawi's day of protests

As I write this, up and down the country, thousands of Malawian's are protesting for their right to democracy. In Blantyre, Zomba, Mzuzu and Lilongwe, there are reports coming out of disturbances and violent reactions by the DPP (the ruling political party) to otherwise peaceful protests.

The protests here have really highlighted the power of social media and networking; there are no news sites reporting what is going on and there is very little information on the web about this. The pictures I have included in this post are taken from friends/peers on twitter and facebook - people who are in the thick of the protests using their android phones to take and upload live pictures of the situation.

We have kept clear of the office, but amidst a fuel crisis, we tried to investigate the possibility of getting fuel this morning at 8am but were told in no uncertain terms by friends, that our cars would likely be torched if we went into town.

The protests today have been planned for some time, with social media playing a huge part in mobilising people and forming a 'red army'. The president recently introduced a 2million Kwacha fee to allow people to protest, and then yesterday he decided to ban the protest completely, meaning the police were authorised to use any means to clear the streets of people. This has led to the use of tear gas and violence this morning.

Yesterday in Blantyre, the DPP sent out some of their youth cadets out in pick up trucks armed with beer and pangas....they are the people in the blue trucks here in this picture, taken by a friend of mine in Blantyre.



#Malawi: A second DPP car has been burned in Mzuzu #20July

Car have been torched in Mzuzu....

#Malawi: DPP car torched in Mzuzu #20July

'it's bloody horrific, massive riots, the DPP building is on fire, teargas has been used, but police outnumbered and have now left streets, looting occurring and we are locked in our buildings very scared' this is a text sent just now from an expat friend in Mzuzu.

caption

The Malawi red army on the streets of Blantyre.

The violence is coming from the friction between the police and DPP thugs (who have been told in no uncertain terms to control the protests) and the 'red army' - who are trying to protest peacefully and stand up for their right to protest in the name of democracy. There are reports that the police have now given up in Blantyre and Mzuzu as they are just too outnumbered. This can only be a good thing, to allow people to protest peacefully and let the march run its course.

All this whilst the President is giving a speech/lecture on many things....

'let me define human rights as including freedom of conversation, worship, speech, economic pursuit' which would explain why many people in this country are scared to talk badly of the government, and why thankfully people have finally had enough and have taken to the streets to exercise their freedom of speech and their right to protest (something the government clearly disagrees with, how else can we explain the DPP thugs with pangas?)

news article (only one I can find) found here: http://www.zodiakmalawi.com/zbs%20malawi/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1118:the-only-july-20-2011&catid=42:banner-stories&Itemid=102

Fresh reports of looting in town, and some buildings have been set on fire in city centre. Offices are being vacated (many underestimated the severity of the protests here) and the roads are ghostly quiet.

That's it for now, when I have more pictures and information I will post again...

Hannah.

Friday 15 July 2011

Charity in Malawi

I have been terrible at updating this blog, especially as it was originally supposed to be a platform from which I could spend more time pretending to be intellectual and write about some of the challenges and successes coming out of Malawian development discourse.... However, i'm back on track...

This week we had an interesting day in the office... I have often wondered about the culture and attitude to charity here in Malawi. In India, very few NGOs exist that aren't religious (i.e. people don't generally feel convicted to help their fellow citizens), sweeping generalisation as that may be, I have never really understood where Africa fits on the 'giving' map. It's been 40 years of Wazungu's running the philanthropy and aid game in Sub Saharan Africa, and given the offensively low wages that local staff are paid, I just never thought about people in Malawi (and elsewhere) giving to charity.

Being that Malawi is predominantly a Christian country, I guess it makes sense that people are naturally generous and want to share what they have. Certainly in my experience I have been inspired and amazed by the hospitality extended to me, time and time again, by people that have far less than I do but are always willing to make their meal extend to one more plate. I suppose it comes down to how you go about asking for things....

So in one day we had the dichotomy of 'giving' experiences. A chap walks into the office and I did a double take really; he reminded me very strongly of the guy I used to buy the big issue from back in Vauxhall, London. He was carrying an A4 folder (much like the ruthless fundraising guys in the UK) and he came round the office visiting each persons desk. Turns out he was deaf, trying to raise money for a registered NGO here in Malawi working to help people who are deaf and/or suffer from hearing loss. He had all the registration information for the NGO and was asking people to record their names and contact information if they wanted to make a donation. Observation number 1: BRILLIANT! Finally, someone cottoning on the 'if i'm well organised and don't harass people, they will recognise that this is a good cause and be more open to donate' principle. Observation number 2: everybody in the office donated money; we have only 4 permanent expats in the office out of 25/30 Malawian staff. Everyone gave generously, and the guy got a good reception. This doesn't particularly surprise me, but it is great watching people who don't paid a great deal, give a sizeable proportion of that to charity. People gave selflessly and without complaint, another attribute I love, and something which is quite rare to find amongst donors in the West...

Then the very same day, a chap came through singing the song of 'I am an orphan, I have HIV/AIDS, I don't have a job, please give me money' something we might be a bit more open to listening to if it weren't for the fact he already borrowed £200 from the company before vanishing off the face of the earth for 2 years.... hmmm there's old Malawi for you!


In other news, the fuel crisis continues. It goes through phases; when petrol is available, diesel is not and when diesel is available petrol is not. The queues are out of this world, although I am well accustomed to them by now. People will queue through the night/several days just to get to the pump and be told they're only allowed to receive 30 litres or whatever it is.... Until recently, what would happen is that people would crawl out of the woodwork with jerry cans once a tanker had refuelled a station. They would march straight to the pumps and get filled up and then likely sell it on the black market or give it to their employer who was probably number 135 in the queue.... then Bingu wa Numpty Mutharika decided to ban jerry cans, So you can now only fill up with your car at the pump. Half makes sense.... Anyway thankfully there has been a brief respite and diesel is back for a few days.

The crisis has been going on, on and off since February. The main reason  for the fuel crisis this year, I have been told, is because of heavily reduced donor funding to the Malawi government - money that the gov. had assigned to purchasing fuel... so obviously, no money = no fuel coming into the country. I will miss a lot of things when I move back to the UK in september for a few months, but I definitely will NOT miss having to think and plan my life around fuel shortages.

Hannah